1- 24” piece of 4” PVC schedule 40 drain pipe
2- 4” PVC schedule 40 Coupling
3- 4” PVC schedule 40 Cap
4- 3” 12VDC PC cooling fan
5- 12VDC 1amp power supply (from an old pair of Dell PC Speakers).
6- 5” square piece of 1/2” foam (left over from my head build).
Now you can place the fan into the cap and the foam will compress sealing between the fan and the inside of the cap so air does not leak back to the inlet side of the fan. Pay attention to the rotation of the fan and direction of air-flow!
Place the wires in such a manner as they exit down through the pipe.
I used a saw and cut a series of squares out of one end of the Coupling so air can be drawn into the pipe by the fan. You need to measure your head to know an approximation of how long the pipe needs to be I was good at 12” for the pipe. Keep in mind that there will be a wire frame that will be holding the head up about another 2” above the cap and of course allow for your neck fur as well so as not to block the airflow with that.
At this point I now have working drying tower the fan pushes air out the top holes with a fair amount of flow. Selecting a higher volume fan is a good idea for the best flow. I have NOT used any PVC cement on the fittings... and quite honestly I really don't see any need to at this point they all fit together quite snug. It means the fan will be replaceable if needed without making a whole new dryer. If it proves to fall apart too easily later on I would just use a bit of Duct tape to hold it together.
This completes the first part of the Dryer build. The next section will be the creation and placement of the wire frame to hold the head in place OVER the cap and away from the pipe to facilitate airflow for drying.
I have decided to use coat hangers (5 of the metal wire type) to accomplish this with the ability to adjust the lengths and curves easily for the contours of my head. The first one in place here shows the curve that I needed. I place 4 more on the tower the same way using a 1/8th inch drill bit to drill into the PVC to place the wire into.
Once the shape has been tweaked to fit the head I will likely use pliers to “Kink” the wire where it goes through the drilled holes, so that it stays in place better, and with a couple more wires in place the idea is more understandable.
With the adjustments of the wires completed Relic fits snugly in place on the frame so that the dryer can do it's job to dry out the inside.
On this model I also want to use an aluminum frame work which I will design to fasten the dryer to the telescopic handle of Relic's wheeled suitcase so I can securely mount the head for transport to / from the car at cons and meets. I will figure that out and on a later post show how I accomplished it.