07 February 2017

Fursuit Head Dryer Build

Part 1
Parts that I am starting out with are:
1- 24” piece of 4” PVC schedule 40 drain pipe
2- 4” PVC schedule 40 Coupling
3- 4” PVC schedule 40 Cap
4- 3” 12VDC PC cooling fan
5- 12VDC 1amp power supply (from an old pair of Dell PC Speakers).
6- 5” square piece of 1/2” foam (left over from my head build).

A 3” PC cooling fan is the perfect size because it will not fall into  the PVC pipe yet it will fit inside the 4” PVC cap which holds it in place.

Begin by drilling a series of holes around the inner circumference of the pipe cap. Use a large enough bit to allow free movement of air but not so large as to weaken the cap. I used a 3/4” spade bit drilling first from one side then the other to make a clean hole placing 6 holes in the cap. I used some sand paper to smooth the edges of the holes a bit. 

Trace the outer circumference of the Cap onto the foam and cut it out, then trace the opening and outer size of the fan onto the foam, and using scissors cut the circle of the fan opening out of the foam. 

You can then place the fan into the foam, it should be a snug fit.

Now you can place the fan into the cap and the foam will compress sealing between the fan and the inside of the cap so air does not leak back to the inlet side of the fan. Pay attention to the rotation of the fan and direction of air-flow! 

Place the wires in such a manner as they exit down through the pipe. 
I used a saw and cut a series of squares out of one end of the Coupling so air can be drawn into the pipe by the fan. You need to measure your head to know an approximation of how long the pipe needs to be I was good at 12” for the pipe. Keep in mind that there will be a wire frame that will be holding the head up about another 2” above the cap and of course allow for your neck fur as well so as not to block the airflow with that.

At this point I now have working drying tower the fan pushes air out the top holes with a fair amount of flow. Selecting a higher volume fan is a good idea for the best flow. I have NOT used any PVC cement on the fittings... and quite honestly I really don't see any need to at this point they all fit together quite snug. It means the fan will be replaceable if needed without making a whole new dryer. If it proves to fall apart too easily later on I would just use a bit of Duct tape to hold it together. 

This completes the first part of the Dryer build. The next section will be the creation and placement of the wire frame to hold the head in place OVER the cap and away from the pipe to facilitate airflow for drying. 

Part 2

Now that the main body if the dryer is finished you need to make a way to hold the dryer centered in the head and raised up off the top of the tower to provide room for airflow.

I have decided to use coat hangers (5 of the metal wire type) to accomplish this with the ability to adjust the lengths and curves easily for the contours of my head. The first one in place here shows the curve that I needed. I place 4 more on the tower the same way using a 1/8th inch drill bit to drill into the PVC to place the wire into.

Once the shape has been tweaked to fit the head I will likely use pliers to “Kink” the wire where it   goes through the drilled holes, so that it stays in place better, and with a couple more wires in place the idea is more understandable.

With the adjustments of the wires completed Relic fits snugly in place on the frame so that the dryer can do it's job to dry out the inside.

On this model I also want to use an aluminum frame work which I will design to fasten the dryer to the telescopic handle of Relic's wheeled suitcase so I can securely mount the head for transport to / from the car at cons and meets. I will figure that out and on a later post show how I accomplished it.